x
  • Country ranking ?

    98
  • Producer ranking ?

    5
  • Decanting time

    20min
  • When to drink

    now to 2035
  • Food Pairing

    sushi

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Dom Pérignon Rosé 2008 released

‘It’s not even an evolution, but a revolution between 2000 and today,’ said Dom Pérignon chef de cave Vincent Chaperon. ‘We changed a lot of things: the selection of plots, the way we are cultivating the vines, how we’re pushing the maturity of the grapes.’

The final blend of the latest rosé vintage, which contains 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, features 10% Pinot Noir red wine, which is low compared to previous years.

‘2008 is a new era; after all this work in the vineyard and winery, we have a lower percentage of red wine than we used to put between 2000 and 2008,’ Chaperon said, adding that the 2005 vintage was at 27% and the 2006 at 21%.

 

Chaperon defines the 2008 as a ‘classic vintage.’ The weather wasn’t as hot as it had been the previous 15 years. In some of the warmer years in Aÿ, the wines can be too rich and heavy – the opposite of what is necessary for the blended rosé.

‘The climate this year gave us the condition to take advantage of a warm village like Aÿ and maintain a certain balance,’ Chaperon said.

In mid-September, the maturity of the grapes exceeded expectations, resembling vintages like 2000 and 2006 – as well as the exceptional 1966.

After five consecutive vintages from 2002 to 2006, the 2008 Pinot Noir grapes from the Champagne House’s dedicated plots in Hautvillers, Bouzy and Aÿ produced red wines with a good balance of freshness and acidity, as well as body and weight.

After 12 years in the cellar, the rosé started to ‘reveal the harmony we were looking for a year and a half ago,’ Chaperon explains. ‘I like the tension between the acidity, tannins, and the umami character; there was an interplay with these three dimensions, and it gives the wine a vibration and sensation of salinity.’

With the rosé, Chaperon said the team wanted to respect the Dom Pérignon profile, but also push it in the direction of more concentration. The result: a rosé Champagne with more strength and more power boosted by the structure of the Aÿ Pinot Noir.

The reveal of the 2008 rosé coincided with the opening of the Dom Pérignon and ADMO project, a 100-day tasting menu pop-up helmed by chefs Albert Adrià, Alain Ducasse, Romain Meder and Jessica Préalpato that debuted 9 November at Les Ombres, Musée du Quai Branly in Paris.

Dom Pérignon Rosé 2008 is released today, 1 December 2021, with a recommended retail price of £260/$350 per bottle.

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The Story

Dom Pérignon Rosé is a tribute to Pinot Noir. To work with Pinot Noir continually requires excellence and humility. In that regard, Dom Pérignon Rosé is a paradox to the point of contradiction as it is the perfect balance of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Although it took over ten years to reach the light of day, the color of Dom Pérignon Rosé dares to express all the tension between youth and maturity, between exhibition and restraint.
Dom Pérignon Rosé keeps the Pinot Noir promise by making it sing out loud, on a clear, vibrant and fragile note.

 

At the end of the 17th Century, Dom Pierre Pérignon stated his ambition to create ‘the best wine in the world’.  On 29 September 1694, Dom Pierre Pérignon wrote that his mission was to create “the best wine in the world.” He dedicated himself to improving viticulture techniques, perfecting the art blending grapes from different crus, and introduced the gentle and fractional pressing to obtain white wine from black grapes.Ever since, the House of Dom Pérignon has perpetuated this visionary approach instilled by its founder, one that remains a hallmark of true luxury: the constant reinvention of the exceptional.

 

Under the creative leadership of cellar master Richard Geoffroy, Dom Pérignon is reinvented with every vintage. The miraculous concept of assemblage – the delicate balance between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – and the commitment to Vintage are instrumental in the act of creation, revealing the wine's extra soul. Precise and tactile to the point of seamlessness, tense through rhythm and vibrancy, vigorous and fresh yet mature, intense and complex – such is the sensual style of Dom Pérignon: so inviting, yet so mysterious...

The core of the blend are the eight historical Grands Crus, Aÿ, Bouzy, Verzenay, Mailly, Chouilly, Cramant, Avize and Le Mesnil, plus the legendary Hautvillers Premier Cru. Dom Perignon also has the unique privilege of being able to select grapes from all 17 Grands Crus in Champagne. giving birth to Dom Perignon's highly intriguing contrast".

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Wine Information

2008 was dominated by grey, overcast skies – an exception in a decade characterized by bold, generous sunshine. Spring and summer rought the same lack of sunlight and absence of high temperatures. It was September that saved the vintage, belatedly and miraculously. Just when the harvest was getting underway (on September 15), the weather conditions were finally perfect: blue skies and prolonged north-northeasterly winds. Picking was spread out over a long period in order to benefit from this positive turn of events. The grapes were riper than anyone dared hope, and had truly outstanding balance. The vines were in perfect health.

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Vintage 2008

2008 -The Champagne vintage set to make history!

A first taste of leading winemakers’ 2008 champagnes reveals a miraculous vintage, bubbling with potential, which – whisper it – might just prove the greatest in living memory.

2008 was not, by any standards, a vintage year for the financial world. And for the greater part of it, 2008 was a pretty poor year for Champagne too: spring was freezing, summer gloomy and overcast. But then, around the time that Lehman Brothers was heading for total collapse, a little miracle occurred in the vineyards of Ambonnay, Bouzy and Ay: the weather turned, the fruit started to ripen and the Champenois suddenly found themselves on course for a vintage that is now, on its release, being hailed as one of the best in a generation.

"2008 is one of the greatest champagne vintages of my lifetime," says Tom Stevenson, co-author of the Christie's World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine and founder of the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships. "So fine and focused, unbelievably long, with great precision, purity and intensity, yet barely perceptible weight."

High-profile 2008s launched this year includes Cristal, Dom Pérignon and Pol Roger Winston Churchill. Several more biggies are still to come, including Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame and Taittinger Comtes de Champagne. But already, 2008 is drawing comparisons with some of champagne’s most legendary vintages. "From what I have seen so far, 2008 is the best young champagne vintage I have ever tasted," says Alastair Woolmer of Farr Vintners. "The 2008s have a very similar energy and intensity to the great 1996s, but with arguably better balance and more consistency. It could well prove to be the best champagne vintage since 1988. "

"I think the 2008 is my best Cristal to date," says Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, chef de cave of Louis Roederer (which produces the prestige cuvée Cristal). "It was a very dry, cool summer, so we have this freshness, this bright line of acidity running through the wine that is typical of great vintages and particularly great Cristal. But it has a velvety texture, too, that will no doubt give it great longevity. "

"Weatherwise, it was a vintage very much in line with 1996, but this time we tried not to make the same mistakes," he says. "In 1996 we picked too early, so we picked later in 2008. We used virtually no oak fermentation in '96, we used more in 2008. We used a little more malolactic fermentation to soften the acidity in 2008. And last, but not least, we kept it 10 years on lees, compared to '96, which we launched after just six years on the lees - that's a big difference. So I think the wines have a texture the ’96 didn’t have in the end. It's a wine with super potential. "

The vintage (£ 279 from Berry Bros & Rudd) may still be young by Cristal standards, but it's already very engaging - salty, citrusy, like pineapple dipped in seawater, with a glorious, creamy mousse. It has that characteristic Louis Roederer flawlessness, but it's also incredibly exuberant. "It's a very, very strong vintage," Lecaillon agrees. "It could be the most 'Cristal" yet of the Cristals! "

Dom Pérignon’s chef de cave Richard Geoffroy is similarly effusive about 2008. "It was a miracle year," he says. "The whole summer ripening period was so-so - gloomy, overcast, gray. We had accepted it was going to be average, but then, just a couple of days before picking, it became outstanding. So the strategy became to hold the picking back, for it to be as slow as could be. It ended up being one of the longest harvests ever, close to four weeks. So much of 2008’s grandeur comes from working with those constraints and turning them into opportunities. "

 

From far left: Louis Roederer Cristal, £ 279 from Berry Bros & Rudd. AR Lenoble Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chouilly, £ 63 from The Whiskey Exchange. Eric Rodez Ambonnay Grand Cru Pinot Noir Les Beurys & Les Secs, £ 92 from Wine Source. Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame, about £ 150 from Clos19. Dom Pérignon Champagne, £ 147 from Clos19

Dom Pérignon 2008 (£ 147 from Clos19) is a blend, more or less like all Dom Pérignons, of equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The result is a wine with serious sex appeal: bright and sherbetty up top, more rich and honeyed beneath. On the nose, there’s a whiff of gunpowder - a smoldering, savory scent that’s a trademark of the house. "A lot of people draw comparisons with 1996," says Geoffroy, "but the 2008 has more substance. It's a bit more 'pumped up' - athletic, even. "

The launch of Dom Pérignon 2008 - which was previewed to a small number of journalists in June but launches properly in early 2019 - is particularly piquant for Geoffroy because it marks his retirement after 28 years as one of champagne’s most glamorous chefs de cave. Geoffroy’s shoes will be filled by his deputy, 42-year-old Vincent Chaperon - a succession that Dom Pérignon is marking with a special Legend Edition coffret for a small number of the 2008 bottles. "It's good that the transition is happening through the 2008," says Geoffroy philosophically, "because it's a vintage that's really pushing the envelope."

 

Dom Pérignon 2008 (£147 from Clos19) is a blend, more or less like all Dom Pérignons, of equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The result is a wine with serious sex appeal: bright and sherbetty up top, more rich and honeyed beneath. On the nose, there’s a whiff of gunpowder – a smouldering, savoury scent that’s a trademark of the house. “A lot of people draw comparisons with 1996,” says Geoffroy, “but the 2008 has more substance. It’s a bit more ‘pumped up’ – athletic, even.”

The launch of Dom Pérignon 2008 – which was previewed to a small number of journalists in June but launches properly in early 2019 – is particularly piquant for Geoffroy because it marks his retirement after 28 years as one of champagne’s most glamorous chefs de cave. Geoffroy’s shoes will be filled by his deputy, 42-year-old Vincent Chaperon – a succession that Dom Pérignon is marking with a special Legend Edition coffret for a small number of the 2008 bottles. “It’s good that the transition is happening through the 2008,” says Geoffroy philosophically, “because it’s a vintage that’s really pushing the envelope.”

2008 was also a seismic year for Veuve Clicquot: cellar master Dominique Demarville was so impressed by the quality of the Pinot Noir that he made a major adjustment to the house’s prestige cuvée La Grande Dame (about £150 from Clos19), bumping up the percentage of Pinot Noir from 60 per cent to 92 per cent (with the remaining eight per cent being Chardonnay) – a change that he’s maintained ever since. “I had wanted to increase the amount of Pinot Noir in La Grande Dame to give it a stronger signature, to get that full body and length, for some time. And 2008 was a great year for Pinot Noir,” he says. “The gentle ripening season resulted in base wines with wonderful balance – depth and richness and body and acidity.” Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2008 is majestic: succulent, firm and full of apple and bramble fruit, borne on a great whoosh of fine, silky fizz. Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2008 will be released in early 2019.

Different houses interpret a vintage in different ways, but the hallmark of 2008 is that brilliant, mouth‑watering acidity. In a blind tasting I did of 2008s and ’09s with Nick Baker of champagne merchants The Finest Bubble, the ’09s were consistently more fruity, more evolved and often deeper in colour, while the ’08s were brighter, tighter and more high-definition. You could spot them a mile off.

Partly as a consequence of that acidity, the 2008 vintage has, as a rule, matured more slowly than 2009, a fact that led a number of houses, including Dom Pérignon, to break with tradition and release the two vintages in reverse chronological order: 2009 first, 2008 second.

Having said that, I think many of the 2008s are already tasting absolutely delicious. And a couple have already won top awards. At the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships 2017, the Chairman’s Trophy went to AR Lenoble’s 2008 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chouilly (£63 from The Whisky Exchange) – a luxuriant champagne that proved 2008 wasn’t just a year for Pinot Noir but Chardonnay too. “The vintage 2008 in Champagne was the best vintage following 2002,” says Antoine Malassagne, winemaker and co-owner of AR Lenoble with his sister Anne. “The rich, natural creaminess found in our Chardonnay grapes from the grand cru village of Chouilly was able to express itself beautifully.”

Piper-Heidsieck’s crystalline 2008 (£70 from The Finest Bubble) won World Champion Vintage Brut Blend in the same competition. “If 2008 has any flaw, it is that its wines are so perfect,” says CSWWC chairman Tom Stevenson. “Truly talented chefs de cave are skilled at blending together interlocking components of imperfection. Even in great years, it is the blender’s skill at the assemblage that creates a polished champagne, but in 2008, each base wine was so beautifully balanced in its own right that combining them threatened to do more harm than good. Some got it wrong and produced champagnes that were too angular and mean, but plenty of others made great 2008s. Many of the very best 2008s have yet to be released, but I have no hesitation in claiming that 2008 is the greatest Dom Pérignon vintage ever produced.”

2008 may have come good in the end, but for many, at the time, it was incredibly stressful. The sheer exhaustion of nurturing vines during a tricky growing season – which often called for night forays into the vineyards – caused Eric Rodez, a former cellar master at Krug, who now makes a range of cult cuvées under his own name, to press two separate plots of Pinot Noir as one, a mistake he only realised after bottling. “As a result, what is normally Les Beurys in any other vintage is Les Beurys & Les Secs Pinot Noir 2008 that year,” he admits, cheerfully. “This wine should not be made again, it is unique to 2008.” 

Rodez’s mistake will no doubt only add to the cachet of his 2008 Ambonnay Grand Cru Pinot Noir Les Beurys & Les Secs (£92 from Wine Source) – a champagne marked by aromatic, cherry fruitiness and fresh minerality. But he still has some more surprises up his sleeve. “We have in the cellars two secret cuvées to be released when the time comes,” he reveals, cryptically. “Patience, patience.”

I’ve tasted fantastic 2008s from the cooperatives too. In the 08/09 blind tasting with The Finest Bubble, Palmer & Co Brut Millésimé 2008 squared up magnificently to the prestige cuvées – it combined a shimmering, almost Roederer-like citrussiness with the snap of pale, buttery shortbread. A great buy at £46.95 a bottle for a case of 12.

If you move fast, there may also still be a few bottles left of Berry Bros & Rudd’s own-label 2008 (£36 each), produced by the Mailly cooperative in the Montagne de Reims – a champagne that’s all pale stone fruit and lean, chalky purity.

There is a lot about the 2008s that’s already pretty irresistible – but hold off drinking them for now, if you can, says Alastair Woolmer. “At this early stage, they are fascinating to taste, but due to their laser-like acidity, they will only reveal their true potential and pleasure with about 20 years of age. Truly great champagne vintages like this need bottle age to be at their best. This is a vintage to go long on and reap the rewards in years to come.”

by Alice Lascelles.

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Tasting note

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Written Notes

Now you must take my tasting note with a pinch of salt as it is still a long way to go before launch. When we met in May 2021, the wine was a little too recently disgorged and disorderly without full harmony. However, undeniably a great wine with a monstrous and monumental structure where the champagne was deliberately drawn towards Burgundy in style. Hardly any detail is really in the right place yet, but everything is there in a beautiful chaos. Strikingly different from the white version from the same year which is lighter and more feminine classic in nature. Here in the rosé, an almost barrel basic note of the smoke from a spring fire dominates together with notes of beetroot, orange nougat, figs and ripe strawberries in fine contrast with notes from the sea. Enormous force as a salt-sprinkled ocean with notes from the forest in the form of pine trees, jacaranda, teak and undergrowth. The acidity is monumental, as is the amount of chalky mineral, but still the senses are overflowing with rich cocky broad-shouldered and loud chords in all sorts of colorful splendor. Oh​,​ how I long to to taste this colossus again when the edges have been sanded down a bit. Most of all, I long to see what Dom Pérignon's world class chefs pick up for food with this challenging wine next time I'm in Château Saran or Le Trianon on Avenue de Champagne.

  • 93p

Salmon. Apples, lemons, minerals, fruit driven, intense, juicy nose. Brioche nose. Fresh acidity, rounded, apples, peach, minerals, red fruits, vinous, elegant texture, long. 95

  • 95p

Rosé colour with slightly copper coloured hue. Very refined character with aroma reminiscent of tangerine zest, raspberries and red currants, peony, Piment d'Espelette and white pepper. Hints of zest in the background. On the palate refined with depth and wonderful length, lively character with perfectly matured flavour, brioche, ripe pink grapefruit, grapefruit peel, and discreet spiciness, red berries in the background. A well structured and very appealing rosé. 

  • 98p

Spring and summer were generally cool and overcast but the year was rescued by a beautiful September, but was it enough? Harvest began on 15 September. Red wines came from Champs de Linotte in Hautvillers (close to the seat of Dom P) and Vauzelles in Aÿ. 
First bottle: Pale to mid salmon pink (much deeper than a typical Provence rosé). There's some note that's mineral or iodine or oyster shell on the nose of this. Then we segue into something floral – rose petals? even candied rose petals. This doesn't have quite the substance and undertow of the 2012 and 2003 P2 reviewed alongside. Perhaps it will develop it, but this bottle seems a bit simple. I will open a back-up sample to check it out and ensure this is not a cork effect. There doesn't seem to be any TCA on the nose but there is a slight shortage of fruit and no great follow-through on the palate.
Second bottle: This bottle has more fruit on the palate but it still doesn't have real zest and tension. And it rather falls away on the finish. Mind you 2008 was a very grey, cloudy year.

  • 90p

This shows incredible depth of fruit with strawberry, cherry and phenolics. Full-bodied and layered with an incredible, three-dimensional element to the wine. This is so transparent and dynamic with dark fruit, yet it remains vivid and bright. Refined and precise, it goes on and on. Really savory, fresh and incredibly pinot-noir-like. What a wine. 13 years of maturation in the bottle. So drinkable now, but it will age for many years ahead.

  • 99p

Medium intense, copper red colour. Super expressive, complex and rich with classic DP notes of spearmint and toastiness. Dry, crisp and vivid palate has immense concentration. Lovely toasty and strawberry flavours escort the lingering finish. JL 96p (Oct 2021)

  • 96p
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Information

Origin

Reims, Champagne

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Grand Vintage Collection

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Vintage

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