Penfolds Grange 2018 – For me, it is simply one of the greatest young Australian wines I have seen. Truly stunning. It is a classic and cracking Grange. 

Like most Granges, a dollop of Cabernet is added to the Shiraz – this time just 3%. Multi-regional but Barossa dominant (69%), with material from McLaren Vale and the Clare Valley, the wine spent 18 months in new American hogsheads. 2018 was simply an outstanding vintage for South Australia. We have seen it with many wines and now we see it here with the Grange. 

Deep magenta in colour, near opaque. The immediate impression here is of great intensity but even more so, impeccable balance. A glorious nose, complete and complex. Black fruits are to the fore, and there is certainly oak evident, but of the finest quality and integrating superbly. The palate is fresh but dense and yet supple and seamless and with such length. Powerful, yet it sings and dances. The tannins are abundant yet so lace-like and silky that they are near invisible. Such an incredibly long finish, with the intensity maintained for the full length. Chocolate notes emerge on the finish. This should sail through 50 to 60 years in good cellars and could probably do up to 80 – not that this will be relevant to many of us. What was fascinating was that after tasting and scribbling notes, I realised that I had hardly identified any specific flavours, such is the overall balance and the way that nothing dominates to any extent, the wine already being such a complete entity. Retracing steps and with further investigation, look for mocha, blackberries, coffee bean notes, cassis, licorice, chocolate, charcuterie, beef stock and soy. Every taste brought forth new and evolving flavours. This is a truly magnificent wine, well on its way to becoming a legend. Not just a legendary Grange, but a legend in the world of wine. 100p.

Bordeaux vintage 2023 - TOP 40 WINES!

Two weeks ago I had the chance to participate in the tasting  of the Union des Grands Crus. The conditions were ideal, however the weather showed a quite mixed face with rather low air pressure. In total, the result of the nine days in Bordeaux was very satisfactory and in addition I had roughly 200 samples sent to Germany, which were tasted just before my departure or just after the return. Today I have had the chance to taste three wines on a sunny "high air pressure day". The wines have been shipped to Essen. Two of them were missing during the en primeur week, the Haut-Médoc de Giscours and the Sirène de Giscours. The Château Giscours I have tasted on one occasion with the Union de Grands Crus already, however I have retasted it and was positively surprised. Therefore you will find its modified tasting note on the 2023 vintage. 

This is the last part of wines tasted during the en primeur week in Bordeaux and in Essen. A very interesting tasting period comes to an end. 

The second part of the large en primeur list.

The 1966 Heitz Vineyard Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon was an epic bottle, a testament to the heights that Napa can achieve, pun intended!  There was a minty and sexy nose that seeped caramel and eucalyptus.  There was this great herbal complexity that was so expressive.  Insane expression!  ‘So good’ was written over and over in my notes.  The palate was creamy, long and smooth with tasty and fresh caramel flavors.  Divine stuff (98).

Some Bordeaux 2023 samples have been sent to Essen and arrived on Tuesday early morning. The tasting was made on Tuesday afternoon. Here are the tasting notes. 

Bordeaux vintage 2023 is a big surprise. There were some bad rumours over the year, however the first tastings showed convincing qualities. Personally, this year’s en primeur tastings remembered me of the en primeur tasting for the vintage 2012, when the wines were fruit driven, very accessible and charming. However, 2023 has more body and structure although it is in most of the cases lighter than 2022. Overall, the tasting results were rather positive with a good number of wines which have been performing as good (or even better) as in 2022 yet presenting a different stylistic approach rather based on elegance, freshness and persistence then sheer power. A number of wines has just been rated a bit lower then 2022 and the negative examples have been much rarer than initially feared. This vintage will be fun to drink and the better wines will also have an excellent potential for a long lasting and bright future.  

QUINTA DO NOVAL VINTAGE PORT NACIONAL 1963 – This is the Vintage Port which most people would like to take to their lonely island. High-scores everywhere and so much life ahead that it almost frightens you: The colour is easily 10-20 years younger of what you would expect. Deep, dark-red colour with lots of reflections. Perfectly balanced bouquet with finesse and intensity. Long and multi-layered aftertaste. Tasted last year at the Quinta. Port-Heaven! 100

Yalumba The Cigar 2019 / A delightful, dense black fruited mass is what greets you here. Suggestive oak lurks furtively, framing not dominating.The palate shows a lick of black licorice, a slick and glossy feel shows it gliding across the palate. It feels composed, graceful in how it presents itself - yet not without some gruff tannins, somewhat acting as a counterpoint to how it presents otherwise. Generous length. Go the years here easily. Drink now to 2032 92p

Dom Pérignon 2003 P2 / Medium deep golden colour with rather small and vivid bubbles. Pure and intense nose, fine development without oxidation, roasted pine and pistachio nuts with confit de citron, fresh peach and brioche notes. The palate is ample and rather opulent with a rounded acidity yet with a nice fresh bite from fine extract, mild creaminess, nice layers of finely spicy yellow fruit, nougat and nutty flavours with a long and embracing finish. 95p

1970s' tasting with all the best wines Part II.